Path of the Dead

Some photos from the train ride:

Today, I can say for certain that I have arrived in New Zealand. Masterton isn't the middle of nowhere, but it's not a huge city (only about 8,000 people). It's all rolling country and massive, snow-capped mist-shrouded mountains and tiny trickling streams that have worn away great gorges.

Yesterday, we met Brian, a pastor who worked here about 15 years ago (he'll be with us until we go back to Wellington in a couple of weeks), and he introduced us to Colin and Jenny, a British couple who have been here for over 30 years. They are, I believe, some of the most friendly people I've ever met. They had us over for dinner last night and gave us the natural history of NZ; the high points being:

1. The only mammal here before the Europeans came was a kind of bat, so all of the birds became flightless (the kiwi, we have decided, is a feathered pear with a beak).

2. Rabbits: one of the most destructive things ever introduced here.

3. There are 4 million people here, and 75 million sheep.

4. The bush used to be so thick that the stretch called 40 Mile Bush needed lanterns along the cleared path at midday.

5. Southerlies (winds from the south) are evil: they blow off Antarctica and keep going until they hit the southern part of the North Island.

Today, we drove to the coast with Colin and Jenny to see some of the more spectacular parts of the area. On the way, we stopped to see Cook Strait. We could kind of see the South Island, but it was a bit foggy.

Then it was on to the wildlife.

New Zealand Fur Seals (of the baby variety):

They weren't afraid of us at all. A couple got so close to some people that they could have petted them. There weren't any adults in the general area, so we didn't need to worry about being mauled by a seal (although that would be quite the story).

On our way back, we stopped at Putangirua Pinnacles, which are spectacular in their own right, but also happened to be our first movie set here: it's where Jackson shot the Path of the Dead for Return of the King.

Tomorrow should be interesting: we're taking a hike through the bush. From what I've seen (which has been cleared of all of the really big trees), it's all really, really thick. Brian also told us to prepare for "cold" and "muddy." The word "wet" may have also occurred. I can't wait.

m.