Being a post on nothing but transportation.

People say that the farther east you go, the more aggressive the drivers get. While I believe it is typically limited to the United States, it would be true even past the Atlantic...right on to Istanbul. I have encountered crazy drivers before in China, but there everyone just drives fast. Here, they not only drive fast, but they drive on sidewalks, stop inches from the cars in front of them (no exaggeration, there are some cars I can't walk between), and, oh yeah, there are no lines on the road...because there don't need to be. The roads are like the sidewalks. If there's a place to squeeze in, they will. An exit that would be two lanes at home here has four cars across and the front end of a fifth (they utilize the six-inch shoulders, too).

This being said, it still takes forever to get anywhere. My definition of "far" has radically changed. It takes me an hour to get to class everyday and the Metro is underground and the MetroBus has its own lane. Two days ago, we had the option of going (by chartered bus) to the Domaloahce Palace (which closed just as we got there), and it took over an hour and half. We did an awful lot of sitting (that particular palace is about a 30-minute walk from my flat).

Istanbul is, surprisingly, a walking-friendly city. From what I've seen, anywhere you can drive you can also walk. Including the medians of highways.

Yes. I'm serious.

I've done it.

What I find completely fascinating is it's easier to walk in the streets than it is on the sidewalks. There are three reasons, I've noticed, each well illustrated by my three different daily walks.

My flat is on a small street that parallels a larger one. The street itself is wide enough for two cars: one parked row and one driving. The sidewalks are wide enough for two abreast, but that's without the obstacles. Each block has metal trapdoors, and each one is raised, and they all clank (loudly) when you step on them. The curb is is tiny wall, and it will cut into the sidewalk if there's some kind of obstacle--like a grate--in the road. About a sixth of the bricks are loose or cracked, and half of the secure ones aren't level with each other. The steps from flats spill onto the walk.

It's easier to just walk in the street.

The second (walking) leg of my journey (pun not intended, but kept in honor of Mr. Cairns) takes me from the Metro to the MetroBus. The bricks are in much better shape, but there are light or signposts every 10-20 feet. There are also a massive number of people traveling to or from the Metro and the sidewalk's not big enough to accommodate them all (some days, it feels like I see half of Istanbul's 15 million residents). Therefore, in the morning (when the street's on my right), it's simpler--and faster--to walk next to the curb.

I would also like to add that I am not the only person doing this. If I am breaking any laws, I'm one of about 2 million.

Coming home is wonderful, because I get to walk on the sidewalk, since the road is on my left. Although there are people who still walk in the road.

After riding the MetroBus, it's only a short walk to IKU. It's not terribly busy, and the sidewalks can support 4-5 abreast, but the curbs are more like cliffs. As in: knee high. There are some places where I have to use the sidewalk, but if I can walk next to them instead of on the, I will. I wasn't planning on doing any mountain climbing while here.

After nine months of this (it's getting more and more natural each day), I wonder what it will be like at home. It's easier to walk in the streets here, but it's also safe because the drivers know there will be people there, and they look out for them. They may get closer than most American drivers (or walkers) are comfortable with, but unless you change your pace or do something stupid, they won't hit you. Speaking as a west coast driver, I/we are not comfortable with people in the road. Even if they're legally crossing. Something tells me sliding through traffic will be slightly difficult when I get home.

I'd like to say that the first horn I hear will break me, but I'm already pretty dead to them. People here are honk-crazy. Sometimes it's good: they honk if they're approaching a blind intersection (usually small streets with cars parked haphazardly and hood in the intersection) to let walkers know they're coming, but busy streets, depending on the time of day, sound similar to what Ira Glass might compose if he could only use horns.

m.